The Prince and The Hawker

Globalisation has brought cuisines from around to world to be widely accessible, especially in a globally connected city like London. That’s why I’m especially excited when I can have an entirely new food experience – like at Lao Cafe.

I have now been to this restaurant in Central London a handful of times. But prior to visiting, I had no experience with Laotian food. I probably, much like others uninitiated, assumed epicurian similarities to Laos’ southeast Asian neighbours of Thailand and Vietnam. While they share some things, I’ve learned that Laotian cuisine is distinctly different.

For example, sticky rice is the predominant staple food in Lao cuisine and it is eaten with almost everything. Laotian curries are less sweet than their Thai counterparts. Coconut milk is not prevalent in Laotian cuisine compared to the cuisine of its neighbours.

All this shines through in Lao Cafe’s extensive menu. There are little snippets of information and apt warnings on the spice level of dishes. The staff are very efficient and helpful in adjusting spice levels where possible. With their help, I always order a wide assortment of dishes to share with the table.

Time to Eat at Lao Cafe

Lao Cafe has a variety of papaya salads to suit different tastes and you can customise the spice level. I usually enjoy the Lap style one, which has both anchovies and pickled crab. This unique combination adds a heady flavour that contrasts the fresh crunch of the vegetables.

The mixed mushroom curry is a great vegetarian dish. As explained on the menu there is no coconut milk in this curry. Instead, the translucent broth relies on fresh herbs and spices for it’s pungent flavour.

If you are with a few friends, there are many larger dishes to add to your sharing roster. The chicken hot pot is a flavourful soup with toasted sesame flavour.

The grilled whole fish is my favourite dish. It always comes out perfectly grilled and I especially like the tanginess of the aubergine dip.

As highlighted on the menu, sticky rice is a staple of Lao mealtime. The rice is fragrant, but I usually find it slightly firmer than expected. I’m not sure, but this may be how it is served in Laos and it works well as a vehicle to mop up all the wonderful sauces.

For friends that may not have as high a spice tolerance, the char-grilled beef is a good option. The spicy (not so spicy) dipping sauce comes on the side so diners can choose how much to taste.

In addition to food, Lao Cafe also has a sizeable drink list, both alcoholic and non-alcoholic. I always enjoy their iced milk tea, which packs pungent tea flavour.

Final Thoughts

Lao Cafe offers up a plethora of unique tasting dishes that are easy to love. Service is very efficient, but you’ll want to make a reservation, even on weekdays.

The pricing is very reasonable, especially for the area. Lao Cafe’s proximity to the West End and Theatreland makes it ideal for a speedy pre-show dinner. The sharing style means you’ll be able to try more dishes with a medium to large party. If you’re sensitive to spiciness, be sure to consult with your server on adjusting the dishes.